Saiin (西院) isn’t on most first-time Kyoto itineraries—and that’s exactly why it’s worth your time. Located west of downtown and just a few stops from major transit hubs, Sainin blends local life with underrated food spots and easy access to both modern and historical sides of the city. It’s not flashy, but that’s the charm. If you’re looking for where locals eat, shop, and hang out away from tourist crowds, this is the neighborhood to know.
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Why Visit Saiin?
Saiin sits at the intersection of urban convenience and everyday Kyoto. It’s a major transfer point on the Hankyu and Keifuku lines, making it easy to reach from Kawaramachi, Arashiyama, or even Osaka. The area itself offers a mix of retro shopping arcades, casual izakayas, and hidden temples. It feels lived-in, but welcoming.
Whether you’re hopping off the train for a quick meal or staying in the area for a few days, there’s plenty to enjoy here—especially if you’re hungry.
A Brief History of Saiin
Photo by:https://kyotoukyo.goguynet.jp/2023/01/09/tachinomi-saiin-goko/
Saiin’s roots trace back to the early Heian period. When Kyoto was established as the imperial capital in 794, two grand temples were constructed to guard its southern entrance: Tō-ji (East Temple) and Sai-ji (West Temple). Sai-ji, located in what is now the Saiin area, was built around 796 and served as a significant religious center. Over time, due to factors like poor drainage and shifting political support, Sai-ji fell into decline and was eventually abandoned. Today, remnants of Sai-ji can be found in Karahashi Saiji Park, offering a glimpse into the area’s historical significance.
Top Restaurants in the Saiin Area
Sumiyaki Sakaba Wataru – Charcoal-Grilled Skewers
Just a short walk from Saiin Station, Sumiyaki Sakaba Wataru is a hidden gem for those craving authentic Japanese izakaya fare. Specializing in yakitori and kushiyaki, this spot offers a variety of skewered delights, all grilled over charcoal to perfection. The intimate setting, with its warm lighting and friendly staff, makes it an ideal place to unwind after a day of exploring Kyoto.
Address: 604-8435 Kyoto, Nakagyo Ward, Nishinokyo Sanjobocho, 2-2 Nishinokyo 105
Phone: 050-5289-3212
Hours: 18:00-0:00
Closed: Mon
Price: 3.000-4.000 JPY
Crayon Shokudo - Kaisendon
Crayon Shokudo offers a delightful mix of fresh seafood and unique offerings like horse meat sashimi sourced directly from Kumamoto. The chef brings over 30 years of experience to the table, ensuring each dish is prepared with precision. With a variety of seating options, including counter seats and private rooms, it’s suitable for both solo diners and larger groups.
Address: 60-22 Mibumorimachi, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8862
Phone: 075-201-8847
Hours: Fri-Tue 12:00-14:00 17:00-22:00, Wed 12:00-14:00, Thu 17:00-22:00
Price: 1.000-2.000 JPY
Imoto Shokai - Traditional Kyoto's Homemade Plates
Just a 2-minute walk from Saiin Station, Imoto Shokai is a welcoming izakaya that specializes in Kyoto’s traditional obanzai dishes. The menu features a variety of home-cooked style dishes, such as simmered vegetables and seasonal specialties, all designed to pair perfectly with their curated selection of sake. The warm, inviting atmosphere makes it an ideal spot for both casual drinks and more intimate gatherings.
Address: 52 Saiinnishijunnaincho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 615-0016
Phone: 075-925-9995
Hours: 17:30-0:00
Closed: Sun
Price: 3.000-4.000 JPY
Spice Curry Kiteretsu - Spice meets tradition
Spice Curry Kiteretsu offers a unique fusion of Japanese and Sri Lankan flavors. Known for its rich and aromatic spice blends, the restaurant serves visually appealing dishes that are both flavorful and satisfying. With a cozy atmosphere and a menu that caters to both spice enthusiasts and those new to curry, it’s a must-visit spot for a hearty meal.
Address: 19-11 Saiinkotobukicho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto, 615-0033
Phone: 075-600-9797
Hours: Mon-Fri 11:00-15:00 18:00-20:30, Sat and Sun 11:00-15:00
Price: 1.000-2.000 JPY
Note: Cash only
Tengudo Umino Bakery - More Than 100 Years History
Established in 1922, Tengudo Umino Bakery is a century-old bakery nestled in Kyoto’s Mibu district. This family-run establishment has been serving the local community for generations, offering a delightful array of breads and pastries that blend tradition with timeless flavors.
Address: 9 Mibunakagawacho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8863
Phone: 075-841-9883
Hours: 7:00-20:00
Closed: Sun and Mon
Price: 200-1.000 JPY
Final Thoughts
Saiin might not have the headline temples or picture-perfect alleys of central Kyoto, but it’s where the city breathes. The food is excellent, the pace is slower, and the people around you are mostly locals just going about their day. That’s the appeal.
If you’ve already seen Kyoto’s top sights and want to try something a little more grounded and a lot more real, Saiin makes a strong case. Come hungry.
If you’re planning a trip to Japan and want more tips on eating healthy or finding macro-friendly meals, it’s worth diving into the local scene like Saiin area.
FAQ Section
Q1: Where is Saiin?
Saiin is a neighborhood in western Kyoto, centered around Sainin Station on the Hankyu and Keifuku lines. It’s about 10 minutes from downtown by train, making it easily accessible for visitors.
Q2: Is Saiin good for sightseeing?
Saiin offers a more local atmosphere than major tourist spots. While it doesn’t boast headline temples, it’s great for exploring neighborhood life, enjoying local food, and experiencing a different side of Kyoto.
Q3: Can I get to Arashiyama from Saiin?
Yes—Keifuku (Randen) trains run directly from Saiin to Arashiyama, making it a smart base if you plan to visit both areas.
Q4: What time do restaurants usually open?
Most places open for lunch around 11:30 and reopen for dinner around 5:30. Some ramen shops and izakayas stay open later into the night, catering to both early and late diners.
Q5: Is Saiin a good place to stay?
If you’re looking for a local vibe with good transport links, Saiin is a great choice. It’s quieter than downtown but well-connected, offering a more authentic Kyoto experience.
Q6: Are there any historical sites in Saiin?
Yes—Karahashi Saiji Park houses the remnants of the ancient Sai-ji temple, providing a glimpse into the area’s historical significance during the Heian period.
Q7: Is Saiin suitable for solo travelers?
Absolutely. The neighborhood’s laid-back atmosphere, combined with solo-friendly dining options and easy transportation, makes it ideal for solo exploration.
Q8: Are there any shopping areas in Sainin?
Saiin features retro shopping arcades and a mix of local shops, offering everything from daily necessities to unique finds, perfect for those looking to shop like a local.
