Walk along the Kamo River near Sanjo Bridge and you’ll see one of Kyoto’s most beloved cityscapes. Couples sit along the stone steps, feet dangling over the river’s edge. Street performers draw quiet crowds. Locals sip iced coffee from convenience stores, and the soft hum of the city fades behind the flowing water. This is Sanjogawara — peaceful, open, and romantic.
But it wasn’t always like this.
This calm, scenic riverside once held a much darker role in Kyoto’s history.
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A Place of Executions
From the Muromachi period (1336–1573) onward, Sanjogawara became one of Kyoto’s designated execution grounds. During the Edo period, it became even more active. The Tokugawa shogunate ordered regular public executions here — often as a demonstration of authority or punishment for political crimes.
Executions weren’t hidden from view. They were spectacles. Crowds gathered. Bodies were sometimes left on display as warnings. It’s estimated that more than 15,000 people were executed at Sanjogawara throughout the centuries.
Today, nothing marks the space — no signs, no memorials. Just clean steps, river breeze, and an unspoken past.
Notable Deaths That Shaped Japanese History
A few executions at Sanjogawara stand out for their scale and brutality — and still haunt Kyoto’s memory.
The Massacre of Toyotomi Hidetsugu’s Family
Toyotomi Hidetsugu’s family massacre (1595) remains one of the most chilling events in pre-Edo history. After being forced to commit ritual suicide, Hidetsugu’s extended family — including 39 individuals, many of them women and children — were publicly executed at Sanjogawara. This mass killing was ordered by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, once his mentor and protector. The act was widely condemned and is often cited as one of the reasons the Toyotomi clan eventually fell from power.
Ishikawa Goemon: Boiled Alive in Legend
Ishikawa Goemon, the legendary outlaw who stole from the rich to give to the poor. Captured and sentenced to death in 1594, he was executed in a giant cauldron of boiling oil — along with his son. While some historians debate the exact location of his execution, many records place it here, and the story has become part of Sanjogawara’s lore. Goemon’s myth lives on through kabuki, literature, and even modern pop culture.
Ishida Mitsunari: The Strategist’s Final Stand
Ishida Mitsunari, a prominent samurai and administrator during the late Sengoku period, was known for his loyalty to Toyotomi Hideyoshi and his role in the Battle of Sekigahara. Following his defeat, Mitsunari was captured and brought to Kyoto. While his execution took place at Rokujo-gawara, not far from Sanjōgawara, the proximity of these sites underscores the area’s historical role as a place of execution and public punishment. Mitsunari’s death marked the end of significant resistance to Tokugawa Ieyasu’s rise to power.
Kondō Isami: The Shinsengumi Commander’s Fall
Kondō Isami, the commander of the Shinsengumi—a special police force active during the late Edo period—was instrumental in maintaining order in Kyoto during turbulent times. After the fall of the Tokugawa shogunate, Kondō was captured by the new Meiji government. He was executed at Itabashi in Edo (modern-day Tokyo), but his connection to Kyoto and the Shinsengumi’s activities in the city tie his legacy to places like Sanjōgawara. The executions carried out in such locations serve as stark reminders of the era’s political upheavals and the often brutal enforcement of order.
A Quiet Place to Reflect
There are no plaques or monuments at Sanjogawara today. Just stone steps, the sound of running water, and the distant view of Sanjo Bridge. It’s a place where Kyoto’s layered history is especially vivid — a beautiful public space built over centuries of silence and suffering.
When you visit, you don’t need to dwell in the past. But knowing what happened here gives the space weight. It reminds us that Kyoto isn’t just a city of temples and gardens — it’s also a place where beauty and brutality have always coexisted.
If you’re walking by at sunset, pause for a moment. Listen to the river. And remember: even the most peaceful places can carry stories the guidebooks never mention.
If you’re curious about the stories that shaped Kyoto — the ones that don’t make it into the typical sightseeing loop — Sanjogawara is just the beginning. Kyoto Insight’s walking tours explore the city’s hidden layers, from elegant facades to uncomfortable truths. Quiet spots. Forgotten stories. Real Kyoto.
FAQ Section
Q1: Where exactly is Sanjogawara?
Sanjogawara refers to the riverbank area near Sanjo Ohashi (Sanjo Bridge), along the Kamo River. It’s located between Shijo and Sanjo streets, directly accessible from Sanjo Station or by walking from Gion. Today, it’s a popular hangout spot with open seating along the stone steps.
Q2: Is there any memorial or sign about the executions?
No — there’s no marker or monument identifying Sanjogawara’s history as an execution ground. The site has been fully absorbed into the public landscape. That’s part of what makes it so haunting: it looks completely ordinary.
Q3: Can I visit at night?
Yes, the area is open 24 hours and is safe to visit at night. It’s actually a popular spot after dark, with people sitting along the river to enjoy the breeze and view. Just be respectful — locals use the space to relax, not to party.
Q4: Is there a specific area where executions happened?
Historical records don’t pinpoint one exact spot, but most sources suggest the executions took place near the west bank, north of Sanjo Bridge. The entire area from Gojo to Sanjo was associated with public punishment at different times in Kyoto’s history.
Q5: How should I approach this place respectfully?
You don’t need to perform any rituals — just acknowledge the space’s layered history. Avoid loud or disrespectful behavior, especially if you’re sharing the area with locals quietly enjoying the river. It’s not a haunted site, but it is a historic one.
Q6: Are there other execution sites in Kyoto?
Yes. In addition to Sanjogawara, Rokujo Misujicho (near Kyoto Station) and Ichijo Modoribashi were known as execution or body disposal areas in medieval Kyoto. Few of them are marked, but they remain important sites for historical context.
